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Parts for your 2011 Toyota Fortuner-Headlights
Narva Battery Master / Isolation Switch Plastic With Removable Key (Contacts Rated 100A at 12V) - 61038BL
$42
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
$52
Narva Battery Master / Isolation Switch Plastic With Removable Key (Contacts Rated 100A at 12V) - 61038
$38
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Narva Automotive/Marine Battery Master / Isolation Switch (Contacts Rated 300A @ 12V) - 61044BL
$102
Narva 4 Position Rotary Battery Master / Isolation Switch (Contacts Rated 300A @ 12V) - 61084BL
$113
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
$55
Narva Heavy Duty Battery Master / Isolation Switch with Removable Key (Contacts Rated 250A @ 12V) - 61050
$165
Narva Battery Master / Isolation Switch Lever Type With Lockout (Contacts Rated 250A @ 12V) - 61064
$458
Narva Battery Master / Isolation Switch Lever Type With Indexing Post (Contacts Rated 180A @ 12V) - 61074
$148
Narva Dual Pole Battery Master / Isolation Switch Lever Type With Lockout (Contacts Rated 250A @ 12V) - 61066
$633
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2011 Toyota Fortuner headlights
Headlights are absolutely fitted to the 2011 Toyota Fortuner. Toyota’s owner’s handbook and global service/repair information for the AN60-series Fortuner specify halogen headlamps as standard equipment, with common bulb types being H4 (60/55 W) dual‑filament in many markets, and projector-style setups using H11 low beam with HB3/9005 high beam in some trims. That aligns with Australian Design Rules/ECE requirements for dipped and main beams on road vehicles, so headlights are both relevant and essential on this model.
On a 2011 Fortuner, the headlights do the heavy lifting after dark and in poor weather—helping the driver see the road and making the vehicle visible to others. Over time, halogen bulbs slowly fade, and lenses can haze from UV exposure, so a bit of attention during servicing goes a long way.
Practical upkeep looks like this:
- Replace bulbs in pairs. If one’s gone dull or blown, the other isn’t far behind. Stick with the correct 12 V wattage (commonly 60/55 W H4, or H11/HB3 where fitted).
- Avoid touching the glass. Oils from fingers create hot spots and shorten bulb life—use gloves or a clean tissue.
- Check aim. If oncoming traffic flashes you or you’re under-lighting the verge, get the alignment checked to meet local ADR/ECE specs. Many Fortuners also have a dash-mounted levelling dial for load compensation.
- Keep lenses clear. Wash with mild car shampoo, not harsh solvents. If they’ve yellowed, a headlight restoration kit plus a UV sealant can bring them back.
- Chase moisture. Condensation inside the lens points to a tired seal or blocked vent. Sort the cause before it cooks new bulbs.
- Know your fuses and relays. If one side is out, check the engine bay fuse/relay box for the headlight circuits before assuming the worst.
DIY bulb change is usually straightforward: open the bonnet, reach the back of the headlamp, remove the rubber dust cover, unplug the connector, release the spring clip or twist-lock, swap the bulb, and refit. On projector types, the bulb may have a locking ring—don’t force it. If upgrading, choose quality ADR/ECE-approved halogen bulbs
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