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Parts for your 2011 Toyota Corolla fielder-Sump plug washers

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Smart-O Sump Plug M12 X 1.25 Blister Pack

Smart-O Sump Plug M12 X 1.25 Blister Pack

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$30
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Smart-O Sump Plug M14 X 1.5 Blister Pack

Smart-O Sump Plug M14 X 1.5 Blister Pack

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$31
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Smart-O Sump Plug M14 X 1.5 Blister Pack

Smart-O Sump Plug M14 X 1.5 Blister Pack

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$43
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Smart-O Sump Plug M14 X 1.5 Blister Pack

Smart-O Sump Plug M14 X 1.5 Blister Pack

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$34
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Smart-O Sump Plug M12 X 1.75 Blister Pack

Smart-O Sump Plug M12 X 1.75 Blister Pack

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$26
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Smart-O Sump Plug M16 X 1.5 Blister Pack

Smart-O Sump Plug M16 X 1.5 Blister Pack

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$47
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Smart-O Sump Plug M20 X 1.5 Blister Pack

Smart-O Sump Plug M20 X 1.5 Blister Pack

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$30
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Tridon Drain / Sump Plug - M14 X 1.5mm

Tridon Drain / Sump Plug - M14 X 1.5mm

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$14
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Smart-O Sump Plug Washer

Smart-O Sump Plug Washer

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$35
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Showing 1 - 39 of 147 products

2011 Toyota Corolla Fielder sumpplugwashers — what they do and when to replace

Technical sources for Toyota’s E140/E150 series (which covers the 2011 Toyota Corolla Fielder) show the engine oil drain plug is designed to seal with a replaceable crush washer. Toyota’s Electronic Parts Catalog lists a 12 mm oil drain plug gasket (commonly referenced as 90430-12031) for these models, and Toyota service literature calls for replacing the drain plug gasket at each oil change. So yes — this vehicle uses a sumpplugwashers, and it’s an expected service item.

On a 2011toyotacorollafielder, the sumpplugwashers sits between the sump (oil pan) and the drain bolt. When the bolt is tightened, this soft aluminium washer crushes slightly to create a tight, leak-free seal. Without it, the joint can seep, leading to drips on the driveway and, worse, a slow loss of engine oil over time. Because the washer deforms to do its job, it’s intended as a one-use part.

For day-to-day servicing, the advice is simple: fit a fresh sumpplugwashers at every oil change. They’re inexpensive, and swapping one in while the oil’s draining takes seconds but can save heaps of hassle later. Most 2011 Corolla Fielder engines use a 12 mm ID aluminium crush washer. If you’re ordering by part number, your parts counter can confirm the correct listing by VIN or engine code.

When tightening the drain plug with a new washer, use a torque wrench. Toyota specs for similar Corolla engines are typically around 27 N·m, which is firm but not gorilla-tight. Over-tightening can distort the washer or damage threads, under-tightening can allow a slow weep. If the previous washer stuck to the pan, peel it off carefully so you don’t accidentally double-stack washers.

  • Replace the sumpplugwashers at each oil change (every 10,000 km/12 months in many ANZ schedules, or as per your service plan).
  • Clean the mating surface on the sump and the bolt head before installation.
  • Torque the drain plug to spec and check for any misting after a short drive.
  • Keep a small pack of genuine or OE-equivalent washers on hand for hassle-free servicing.

This small part does a big job. For a tidy, leak-free 2011toyotacorollafielder, a new sumpplugwashers each service is the go.

Popular questions about 2011toyotacorollafielder sumpplugwashers

What size sumpplugwashers does a 2011toyotacorollafielder use?

Most 2011 Corolla Fielder variants take a 12 mm internal diameter aluminium crush washer on the engine oil drain plug. Toyota commonly supplies this as a “gasket, drain plug” used across Corolla engines of the era. If in doubt, confirm against the engine code (e.g., 1NZ-FE or 2ZR-FE) or check the old washer’s dimensions before refitting.

How often should the sumpplugwashers be replaced?

Replace the sumpplugwashers at every oil change. It’s a crush-type seal that deforms once to create a reliable seal, so reusing it can lead to weeping or a drip. Given the low cost, swapping it every service is cheap insurance for keeping oil where it belongs.

What’s the correct torque for the drain plug with a new washer?

For Corolla engines of this generation, a typical spec is around 27 N·m on the drain plug when using a fresh washer. Use a torque wrench, avoid over-tightening, and recheck for any signs of seepage after the first short drive. If the spec label under the bonnet or your service data lists a different figure for your exact engine, follow that.

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