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Parts for your 2011 Honda Stream-Ac condensor
Doowon Condenser Parallel Flow (Subcooled) Inlet Pad Outlet Pad - CNX968G
Doowon Condenser Parallel Flow (Subcooled) Inlet Pad Outlet Pad - CNX01060
REDDOT Condenser Tube and Fin Inlet #8 MIOR Outlet #6 MIOR - RD447380P
REDDOT Condenser Parallel Flow Inlet Pad Outlet Pad - RD475520P
Explore 4WD & Adventure
Denso Air Conditioning Condenser Parallel Flow Inlet Pad Outlet Pad - CNX9810
REDDOT Condenser Assembly Inlet #8 MIOR Outlet #6 MIOR - R61600P
Denso Air Conditioning Condenser Parallel Flow Inlet Pad Outlet Pad - CNX9370
OEX Condenser Parallel Flow (Subcooled) Inlet Pad Outlet Pad - CNX415
REDDOT Condenser Tube and Fin Inlet #8 MIOR Outlet #6 MIOR - RD450450P
VALEO Condenser Parallel Flow (Subcooled) Inlet Pad Outlet Pad - 814301
Hanon Air Conditioning Condenser Parallel Flow (Subcooled) Inlet Pad Outlet Pad - CNX994
Doowon Air Conditioning Condenser Parallel Flow Inlet Pad Outlet Pad
Denso Air Conditioning Condenser Parallel Flow Inlet Pad Outlet Pad
OEX Condenser Parallel Flow Inlet #8 MIOR Outlet #6 MIOR - CNX424
Hanon Air Conditioning Condenser Parallel Flow Inlet Pad Outlet Pad - CNX123
MAHLE Condenser Parallel Flow Inlet Pad Outlet Pad - AC756000P
Sanden Air Conditioning Condenser Parallel Flow Inlet #8 MIOR Outlet #6 MIOR
REDDOT 24V Red Dot Roof Top Condenser Assembly 24V - R9725324P
Hanon Air Conditioning Condenser Parallel Flow (Subcooled) Inlet Pad Outlet Pad - CNX01015
REDDOT Condenser Tube and Fin Inlet #8 MIOR Outlet #6 MIOR - RD436460P
Doowon Condenser Parallel Flow (Subcooled) Inlet Pad Outlet Pad - CNX01059
Doowon Air Conditioning Condenser Parallel Flow (Subcooled) Inlet Pad Outlet Pad - CNX01018
Condenser Parallel Flow (Subcooled) Inlet Pad Outlet Pad - CNX724
MAHLE Condenser Parallel Flow Inlet Pad Outlet Pad - AC884000P
2011 Honda Stream AC condenser (ac-condensor)
Technical sources confirm the 2011 Honda Stream is fitted with an AC condenser: Honda’s RN6–RN9 Service Manual (Air Conditioning/HVAC), the Honda Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC), and DENSO’s parallel‑flow condenser documentation all specify a front‑mounted condenser for this model running R‑134a refrigerant.
The condenser’s job is to dump heat from the high‑pressure refrigerant vapour coming out of the compressor, condensing it back to a high‑pressure liquid. It sits ahead of the radiator behind the bumper and relies on road airflow and the twin electric fans under the bonnet. On most Streams of this era, it’s a compact parallel‑flow unit with an integrated receiver/drier (desiccant) to capture moisture and debris.
When the condenser cops stone strikes, corrodes, or gets packed with road grime, the aircon struggles—vent temps climb, the compressor works harder, and high‑side pressures spike. Keep driving like that and it can cook the compressor and contaminate the whole system.
There’s no set replacement interval, it’s a condition‑based item. As part of regular servicing, a technician should:
- Check fins and end tanks for damage and oily residue (a giveaway for leaks).
- Verify condenser fan operation and clear bugs and debris with low‑pressure water, straighten light fin damage carefully.
- Leak‑test and performance‑check if cooling drops off or after any front‑end knock.
If it needs replacing, best practice is to fit a quality condenser, renew all O‑rings, and replace the receiver/drier or desiccant bag if it’s built in. The system must be evacuated and recharged by a licensed AC tech—venting refrigerant is illegal in Australia and New Zealand. Add the correct type and quantity of refrigerant oil (Honda specifies ND‑OIL 8/PAG 46 for R‑134a systems, check the service data for the exact top‑up when a condenser is changed), draw a deep vacuum to remove moisture, then charge to the specified refrigerant mass.
A thorough job also includes flushing lines if the old unit leaked or the compressor failed, confirming there’s no air in the circuit, and checking outlet temps and gauge pressures. Done right, the Stream will blow icy cold even on a scorcher of an arvo.
Where is the AC condenser on a 2011 Honda Stream, and how can someone spot trouble?
It’s mounted at the very front of the car, in front of the radiator, visible through the grille. Common signs of issues include warmer air from the vents at idle, condenser fans running hard, oily residue or UV‑dye traces on the condenser fins, and bent or corroded fins. A specialist can confirm with pressure gauges and a leak test.
How much does replacement usually cost in Australia or New Zealand, and how long does it take?
Typical parts pricing ranges roughly from a few hundred to the mid‑hundreds (AUD/NZD) depending on brand and availability, plus new O‑rings and drier/desiccant. Labour is commonly 2–4 hours including evacuate‑and‑recharge, but exact cost and time depend on workshop rates and the vehicle’s condition.
Is it okay to keep driving with a leaking condenser?
If it’s leaking, the aircon will eventually stop cooling and the compressor can be damaged by low refrigerant and poor lubrication. There’s also the environmental side—refrigerant must not be vented. It’s best to book a repair promptly and have the system recovered and serviced by a licensed tech.