Parts for your 2010 Toyota Crown-Strut mounts

2010 Toyota Crown strut-mounts: what’s actually fitted and what to service

Short answer: traditional strut-mounts aren’t used on the 2010 Toyota Crown. Technical sources list the S200-series Crown (2008–2012 Royal/Athlete, including Hybrid) with a double-wishbone front suspension and a multi-link rear, not MacPherson struts. That means there’s no rotating strut top bearing or “strut-mount” as seen in many front‑drive Toyotas.

References owners and techs rely on include: Toyota Crown S200 Repair Manual (Front Suspension section: Double Wishbone type), Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue (GRS200/204, AWS200) showing “Support/Insulator, Front Shock Absorber” and related insulators/bushes rather than a strut-mount, and platform overviews noting double-wishbone geometry for steering precision and NVH refinement. Those documents consistently avoid listing a MacPherson strut top mount for this model.

What the Crown does have are shock absorber upper supports/insulators and spring seats. Steering rotation happens at the ball joints, not through a strut bearing. So if someone’s searching “2010‑Toyota‑Crown strut‑mounts”, the equivalent service parts are the front shock absorber upper insulator/support components and related rubbers. Same deal in the rear: multi‑link damper mounts and insulators rather than strut-mounts.

Why Toyota went this route comes down to ride and handling. A double-wishbone layout lets engineers dial in camber control and isolation, which the Crown uses to deliver that supple, quiet, long‑distance feel Aussies and Kiwis expect from a premium rear‑drive Toyota.

What to check or replace during servicing instead of “strut-mounts”:

• Front shock absorber upper insulators/supports and spring seats for cracking, perishing or collapsed rubber.
• Dust boots and bump stops on all dampers to keep grit out and protect the pistons.
• Control arm bushes and ball joints (front double wishbone, rear multi‑link) for play or split boots.
• Top mount hardware (nuts/bolts) for corrosion, replace single‑use fasteners as per the Toyota manual.

Symptoms that feel like “bad strut mounts” on other cars will show up in a Crown as thumps over speed humps, a dull clonk at low speed turns, vague steering, or uneven tyre wear. If those pop up, inspect the damper upper insulators and the arms/bushes before blaming the shocks themselves. When refreshing, replace components in axle pairs, get a proper alignment, and torque everything to spec from the factory service manual.

Buying tip: when a catalogue lists a “strut mount” for the 2010 Crown, it usually means the shock upper insulator/support. Double‑check by VIN and suspension code in the EPC to make sure you’re getting the right insulators, seats, and hardware for your specific variant.

Popular questions about 2010‑Toyota‑Crown strut‑mounts

Does a 2010 Toyota Crown actually have strut-mounts?
No. The S200 Crown uses a double‑wishbone front end and multi‑link rear, so there’s no MacPherson strut top bearing. You’ll be looking for front shock absorber upper insulators/supports and rear damper mounts instead.

What should be replaced if I’m hearing a top-end suspension clunk?
Start with the front shock upper insulators/supports, spring seats, dust boots and bump stops. Also check control arm bushes and ball joints. Many “clunk” complaints end up being tired rubber or a dry joint rather than the damper itself.

How often should these mounts/insulators be inspected?
A good rule of thumb is a check every 40–50,000 kilometres or at each major service, sooner if the car tackles rough roads. Replace when the rubber is cracked, perished, or there’s play/noise. Always refresh in pairs and follow the Toyota torque specs.