Parts for your 2010 Honda Cr-v-Wheel hubs

2010 Honda CR‑V wheel hubs: what they do and how to look after them

Based on technical sources including the Honda CR‑V 2007–2011 Service Manual (Driveline/Axle sections) and Honda OEM parts catalogues, the 2010 Honda CR‑V is fitted with wheel hubs at all four corners. The front end uses a pressed bearing in the knuckle with a separate splined hub flange, while the rear uses a bolt‑on hub and bearing unit that also carries the ABS tone ring. That makes wheel hubs absolutely relevant to the 2010 CR‑V’s suspension and driveline.

On this model, the wheel hub’s job is to support the vehicle’s weight through the bearing, provide a mounting face and studs for the wheel, and—on driven wheels—transfer torque from the driveshaft into the wheel. The rear hub assemblies also interact with the ABS via an integrated tone ring, helping the stability and traction systems keep things tidy on wet Kiwi and Aussie roads.

Hubs and bearings on a 2010 CR‑V are sealed, so they’re not a grease‑and‑go item. Servicing is about inspection and timely replacement. Typical tell‑tales include a humming or growling noise that rises with road speed, play detected when rocking the wheel at 12 and 6 o’clock, ABS warning lights, or heat around the hub after a drive. Tyre roar can sound similar, so a road test with gentle lane weaves can help confirm the noisy corner.

Front hub service on this generation usually means pressing the old bearing from the knuckle and pressing in a new bearing and hub flange—best handled with a proper press and support tools to avoid damaging the new bearing. The rear is friendlier: the hub/bearing unit is a bolt‑off, bolt‑on job, but care is needed with the ABS sensor and cable. The axle nut is a high‑torque, single‑use item, always follow Honda’s torque and staking procedure. Wheel nuts should be tightened evenly to about 108 N·m (check the service data for the exact spec) to protect the new bearing.

• Use quality hub/bearing assemblies and new axle nuts/bolts where specified.
• If the knuckle is removed, an alignment check is a smart move.
• Replacing only the noisy side is fine, on high‑kilometre vehicles, consider both sides on the same axle.
• A failing hub can increase stopping distances—don’t leave it until it howls.

Does the 2010 CR‑V have bolt‑on or pressed wheel hubs?

Both styles appear on this model. The front uses a pressed bearing in the knuckle with a separate hub flange, while the rear uses a bolt‑on hub and bearing unit. That’s why front service generally needs a press, but the rear can be swapped with hand tools and careful torqueing.

How long do wheel hubs last on a 2010 CR‑V?

Many go 120,000–200,000 kilometres, but rough roads, big loads, and oversized tyres can shorten that. AWD variants work the rear hubs harder, so rear units may show wear first. Regular checks during tyre rotations help catch issues early.

What noise points to a worn wheel hub?

A low drone or growl that gets louder with speed, often changing when gently weaving or loading one side in a turn, is classic hub/bearing noise. A rhythmic scrape or an ABS light can also pop up if the tone ring or sensor is affected.