Parts for your 2008 Mitsubishi Outlander-Crank angle sensor

2008 Mitsubishi Outlander crank-angle sensor: what it does, where it lives, and how to look after it

Based on factory technical references, the 2008 Mitsubishi Outlander is fitted with a crank-angle sensor (also called a crankshaft position sensor, CKP). The unit is specified and tested in the Mitsubishi Outlander (CW) 2007–2012 Workshop Manual under Engine Electrical – Crankshaft Position Sensor diagnostics, and it’s listed in the Mitsubishi ASA electronic parts catalogue for CW-series models (including 4B11/4B12 2.0/2.4 petrol and 6B31 3.0 V6). The same manual covers OBD-II faults P0335/P0336 for crank signal issues, confirming its relevance to this model.

On a 2008 Outlander, the crank-angle sensor is the engine’s timekeeper. It reads a toothed wheel on the crankshaft and feeds exact rotational position and speed back to the ECU. That lets the ECU fire the coils and injectors right when it should, juggle idle control, and pull timing if it detects a problem. Without a clean signal, the Outlander can be hard to start, stall at lights, or not run at all.

For servicing, there’s not much to “maintain” on the sensor itself, but it’s smart to keep an eye on the wiring loom and connector under the bonnet. Heat, oil mist, and road grime can creep in over the kilometres. During scheduled services, a quick visual for chafed loom sections, loose clips, or oil leaks at the front or rear crank seals helps keep the CKP signal crisp. If the check engine light pops up with P0335/P0336, grab the basics first: battery health, connector fit, resistance checks per the workshop manual, and a scope look at the waveform if available.

When replacement is needed, a quality OEM-equivalent sensor is worth it. The sensor gap to the tone wheel is set by design, don’t shim or grind. Fit a new O-ring where applicable, clean the mounting face, and torque the bolt to spec. After installation, clear any codes and perform an idle relearn if the ECU asks for it. No coding is typically required on the Outlander, but stable battery voltage during first start helps the ECU learn clean signals.

• Tell-tales of trouble: extended cranking, sudden stalls, erratic tacho, poor fuel economy, and P0335/P0336.
• Good practice: check harness routing, keep oil leaks in check, and use dielectric grease sparingly on the connector seal.
• If misfires persist after replacement, inspect the cam sensor and timing chain/belt alignment as the next steps.

Technical sources referenced: Mitsubishi Outlander (CW) 2007–2012 Workshop Manual – Engine Electrical: Crankshaft Position Sensor description, testing and DTC P0335/P0336, Mitsubishi ASA Electronic Parts Catalogue for CW-series Outlander (CKP sensor listing).

Popular questions about the 2008 Mitsubishi Outlander crank-angle sensor

Where is the crank-angle sensor located on a 2008 Outlander?
Location varies by engine. On most 4B11/4B12 petrol engines it’s mounted low on the block reading a tone wheel at the crank (often near the front of the engine behind the crank pulley area). On the 3.0 V6 (6B31) it’s typically at the transmission bellhousing area, reading the flywheel/flexplate.

Access can be from under the vehicle with the splash shield off. A torch and a small ratchet help, and mind the hot exhaust.

What symptoms point to a failing crank-angle sensor on this model?
Common signs include long cranking, random stalling at idle, no-start when hot, a dead or jumpy tacho, rough running, and fault codes P0335 or P0336. Because the ECU relies on the crank signal for spark and fueling, a weak or missing signal can shut the party down quickly.

Before condemning the sensor, check the connector, wiring, and battery. Heat-soaked sensors often fail intermittently.

Does a new crank-angle sensor need coding on a 2008 Outlander?
No special coding is normally required. Fit the sensor, clear codes, and let the ECU relearn idle if needed. Ensure good battery voltage during first start and verify there are no oil leaks fouling the connector.

If a code returns, double-check the mounting, air gap by design, loom damage, and engine timing marks.