Your Selected Vehicle
Parts for your 2006 Honda Fit-Oil seals
Explore 4WD & Adventure
2006 Honda Fit (GD) Oil Seals — What They Do and When to Replace
Oil seals are absolutely used on the 2006 Honda Fit (GD, sold as Jazz in AU/NZ). This is confirmed by the Honda factory service manual for the 2002–2008 GD Jazz/Fit (engine lubrication and transmission sections), Honda’s Electronic Parts Catalogue listings for crankshaft, camshaft and driveshaft/differential seals, and OEM supplier data from NOK/Aisin on Honda L‑series engines. So oil seals are relevant to this model and part of normal maintenance decision‑making.
On this Fit’s L‑series engine and its CVT or manual gearbox, oil seals keep engine oil and transmission fluid where they belong, stopping leaks at rotating shafts while keeping dust and water out. When they age, harden, or groove the shaft, they can drip, mist onto the underbody, or cause clutch/drive belt contamination. Left too long, a minor weep can turn into a proper leak and an oily mess.
- Front and rear crankshaft oil seals: at the crank pulley end and between engine and gearbox (rear main). Often replaced during timing cover/chain work (front) or when the gearbox is out for clutch/CVT repairs (rear).
- Camshaft oil seal: at the timing end of the cam, addressed if the timing cover is off or any seepage is found.
- Driveshaft/differential seals: where the CV shafts enter the transmission, replaced if there’s CVT/gear oil at the axle stubs or when shafts are removed.
- Valve stem seals: internal engine seals, replaced if there’s blue smoke on start‑up/overrun and high oil use.
For day‑to‑day servicing, seals aren’t a scheduled replacement item, they’re “replace on condition”. A good workshop will check for fresh oil around the crank pulley, timing cover edges, bellhousing joint, and at the driveshafts every 10,000–15,000 kilometres. If there’s dampness, they’ll clean the area, recheck after a short drive, and confirm the source. Using the correct oil grade, not overfilling, and keeping the PCV/breather system clear all help reduce crankcase pressure and extend seal life.
When replacement’s needed, genuine or OEM‑quality seals (NOK/Honda) are worth it. Expect minimal extra labour if a seal is done while the related job is already underway (for example, rear main during a clutch, or axle seals during shaft removal). If a leak is heavy, don’t put it off — oil on the clutch, CVT belt area, or tyres is no fun.
Where do oil seals most commonly leak on a 2006 Fit/Jazz?
Typical spots are the front crank seal (oil mist near the crank pulley and lower timing cover), the rear main seal (oil at the bellhousing weep area), and the driveshaft seals (wetness around the axle stubs). A UV dye and degrease/recheck can pin it down quickly.
How can they tell a rear main leak from an oil pan or rocker cover leak?
Clean the area, then look for the highest, freshest point of oil. Rocker cover leaks track down the back of the block, oil pan leaks start at the gasket seam. A true rear main leak emerges from the bellhousing joint. A workshop mirror/borescope helps confirm it without guesswork.
Should oil seals be replaced proactively?
Not usually. They’re best replaced when there’s evidence of leakage or while related components are already off. That said, if a seal shows early weeping and the timing cover or gearbox is coming out anyway, it’s smart preventive maintenance.