Parts for your 2006 Holden Commodore-Thrust bearing

2006 Holden Commodore thrust-bearing — what it is, and when it’s actually fitted

On a 2006 Holden Commodore, a “thrust bearing” in the context of the clutch is fitted to manual-transmission models only. Workshop references including the Holden VZ and VE Series Service Manuals (Clutch/Transmission sections), plus gearbox manufacturer literature for the Aisin AY6 and Tremec T56/TR-6060, identify a clutch release bearing (also called a thrust or throwout bearing) operating against the pressure plate. By contrast, automatic Commodores (e.g., with 4L60-E/5L40-E Hydra-Matic units detailed in GM service material) use a torque converter and do not have a clutch thrust/release bearing. So, the part is relevant if the car is a manual, not applicable if it’s an auto.

For manual 2006 Commodores, the thrust-bearing’s job is simple but crucial: it transfers the driver’s pedal effort via the clutch fork or a concentric slave cylinder (CSC) to smoothly disengage the clutch. Many VE manuals use a CSC with the bearing integrated, while late VZ and V8 variants may use a fork-mounted bearing, both approaches are documented in Holden and gearbox manufacturer manuals. When healthy, it’s quiet, smooth, and helps deliver a light, progressive pedal feel.

Servicing-wise, there’s no fixed interval for the thrust-bearing, it’s typically replaced whenever the clutch is done. That’s backed by standard workshop practice in the Holden VE/VZ clutch procedures: with the gearbox out, replacing the bearing (and CSC if fitted) is cheap insurance, and it avoids paying labour twice. If it’s a CSC type, inspect for fluid weep, swelling seals, or gritty rotation. For fork-mounted units, check the guide tube for wear and make sure the fork pivots and clips are in good nick.

• Common symptoms: squeal or chirp with the clutch pedal depressed, roughness felt through the pedal, dragging or notchy gear engagement, or a whirring noise that changes as the pedal is pressed.
• Good practice: replace the thrust-bearing with every new clutch kit, renew the pilot/spigot bearing, rear main seal (if seeping), and inspect the flywheel surface, bleed the hydraulic system thoroughly (Dot 3/4 as specified).
• If it’s an auto: a “clutch thrust-bearing” doesn’t apply, any rumble under load is more likely torque-converter, flexplate, or internal transmission thrust elements addressed under automatic transmission service procedures.

Referencing: Holden VZ and VE Series Service/Workshop Manuals (Clutch/Manual Transmission), Aisin AY6 service information, Tremec T56/TR-6060 service manuals, and GM Hydra-Matic 4L60-E/5L40-E documentation for the automatic fitment difference.

Popular questions

How can someone tell if their 2006 Commodore’s thrust-bearing is failing?
Usually the noise gives it away: a chirp or squeal when the clutch pedal is pressed, or a rough, gravelly feel through the pedal. If the sound disappears when the pedal is released, that points to the release/thrust-bearing. Persistent noise regardless of pedal position can indicate other rotating components.

Should the thrust-bearing be replaced every time the clutch is done?
Yes. With the gearbox already out, replacing the bearing (and the CSC on models that use it) is standard practice noted in Holden and gearbox manuals. It’s low cost compared to labour, and it helps avoid a revisit if the old bearing starts to complain later.

Is a thrust-bearing fitted on an automatic 2006 Commodore?
No. Automatics use a torque converter and don’t have a clutch thrust/release-bearing. If there’s a driveline noise on an auto, diagnosis focuses on converter, flexplate, or internal transmission components as per GM Hydra-Matic service procedures.