Parts for your 2002 Daihatsu Yrv-Crank angle sensor

2002 Daihatsu YRV crank-angle sensor: purpose, fitment and servicing

Technical sources including the Daihatsu YRV Workshop Manual for K3-VE/K3-VET engines, Denso engine control system descriptions, and Autodata engine management listings for the 2002 YRV confirm the vehicle uses a crank-angle sensor (also called a crankshaft position sensor/CKP). All 2002 YRV petrol engines—EJ-VE 1.0, K3-VE 1.3 and K3-VET 1.3 turbo—are distributorless EFI setups that rely on a CKP signal for spark and fuel timing. So yes, it’s fitted and essential on this model.

On the 2002 Daihatsu YRV, the crank-angle sensor keeps the ECU in the loop on exactly where the crankshaft is and how fast it’s spinning. That position/speed signal is the heartbeat for fuel injection timing, ignition timing, and misfire monitoring. Without it, the YRV will crank but not fire, or it’ll cut out and run rough as guts.

Most YRV units use a two-pin magnetic (VR) sensor reading a toothed reluctor on the crank, some variants may present as three-pin Hall types. It’s typically mounted at the lower front of the engine at the timing chain cover, reading the crank sprocket/pulley. When it goes out of spec or its wiring plays up, the ECU will usually throw a MIL with codes like P0335 or P0336.

• Common symptoms: long crank/no start, sudden stalling when hot, misfire under load, erratic tachometer, poor fuel economy, and the check engine light (often P0335/P0336).
• Quick checks: inspect the connector for oil ingress or brittle pins, look for chafed wiring near the crank pulley, and check for metal fuzz stuck to the sensor tip.

It’s not a scheduled service item, but it’s smart to treat it during major services: clean the plug, ensure the harness is clipped away from the exhaust, and keep the area free of oil leaks that can wick into the connector. If replacement’s needed, go for genuine or OE-quality (Denso) to avoid flaky signals.

• Replacement pointers: disconnect the negative battery terminal, safely raise the front, pop the splash shield, unplug the sensor and remove its small retaining bolt (commonly 10 mm head). Lightly oil the O-ring on the new unit, seat it square, and tighten the bolt to a light fastener spec (around 8–10 Nm—confirm in workshop data). The air gap isn’t adjustable on this design.
• After fitting: clear fault codes, and take a short drive so the ECU can settle fuel trims. If a no-start persists, scope the signal and back-probe the loom to rule out a wiring fault.

Treat the crank-angle sensor as a “fix when faulty” component. Kept clean and cool, it’ll generally go the distance, when they age, heat soak and vibration are the usual villains.

Popular questions about 2002 Daihatsu YRV crank-angle sensors

Where is the crank-angle sensor on a 2002 Daihatsu YRV?
It’s mounted low at the front of the engine on the timing chain cover, reading a toothed wheel on the crank. Access is easiest from underneath with the front splash guard removed. Expect a small single bolt holding the sensor and a short harness leading to a two-pin plug on most models.

If you’re unsure, follow the loom from the lower front of the engine near the crank pulley—look for a small cylindrical sensor pointing inward toward the crank.

What are the symptoms of a failing YRV crank-angle sensor?
Classic signs are a crank/no-start, intermittent stalling when hot, rough running, and a check engine light. The ECU often logs P0335 (crankshaft position sensor circuit) or P0336 (range/performance). Because the ECU loses a clean speed/position signal, timing goes out the window and the engine either won’t fire or runs erratically.

Before condemning the sensor, check its connector for oil and corrosion, inspect the wiring for rub-through near the pulley, and make sure the battery/grounds are solid.

Can the crank-angle sensor be cleaned or does it need replacement?
If the tip has a light build-up of metallic fuzz, a careful clean can restore a good signal. However, internal failures from heat or vibration aren’t fixable—replacement is the go. When fitting a new one, use an OE-quality sensor and renew the O-ring if it’s flattened or brittle to keep oil out of the connector.

After replacement, clear codes and road test. If faults return, consider waveform testing and a harness continuity check to rule out wiring issues.