Parts for your 1998 Daihatsu Gran move-Drive belt tensioner

1998 Daihatsu Gran Move drive-belt tensioner — is it actually a thing on this model?

Short answer: no. The 1998 Daihatsu Gran Move (also known as the Pyzar in some markets), typically fitted with the HC-EJ 1.5-litre SOHC engine, does not use a spring-loaded, automatic drive-belt tensioner. Instead, it runs separate accessory belts that are manually tensioned by moving the alternator and power-steering pump on their slotted brackets, and by adjusting a dedicated idler pulley for the A/C belt.

This isn’t guesswork. Technical sources back it up: the Daihatsu Pyzar/Gran Move factory workshop manual for the HC‑EJ engine shows belt tension being set by loosening lock bolts and using adjuster bolts on the alternator and power-steering pump, plus an adjustable A/C idler — there’s no automatic tensioner in the procedure or diagrams. The Daihatsu Electronic Parts Catalogue (G300/G301 series, late 1990s) also lists the alternator belt, P/S belt, and A/C belt with an idler pulley, but no drive-belt tensioner assembly. The owner’s handbook under-bonnet belt diagram likewise points to adjust bolts, not a tensioner.

Why didn’t Daihatsu fit a tensioner? In this era and size class, multiple simple belts were common. It kept cost and complexity down, let workshops adjust each belt separately, and suited the compact accessory layout. With modest accessory loads, a manual setup did the job just fine.

What owners will find under the bonnet:

• Alternator/water pump belt — tensioned by swinging the alternator on its slotted bracket, then tightening the pivot and lock bolts.
• Power-steering belt — adjusted by sliding the P/S pump along its mounts, then locking it down.
• A/C belt — uses an adjustable idler pulley with a long adjuster screw to set tension.

Good servicing practice is simple and cheap: check belt condition and tension at each service (around every 10,000–15,000 km), and replace belts every 60,000–80,000 km or 4–5 years, sooner if they’re cracked, glazed, or noisy. Aim for the specified deflection/force from the manual, if that’s not handy, a modest 8–10 mm of mid-span deflection with firm thumb pressure is a reasonable field check. Don’t over-tighten — that can knock out alternator, water pump, or P/S pump bearings. A cold-start squeal, chirp after rain, dimming lights at idle, or heavy steering can all point to slack or worn belts rather than a “bad tensioner,” because there isn’t one to fail on this model.

If the car’s been modified or has a non-original engine/accessory setup, the arrangement may differ, so it’s worth confirming by VIN or a quick visual check.

FAQs

Does a 1998 Daihatsu Gran Move have a drive-belt tensioner?

No. It uses manually adjusted belts. The alternator and power-steering pump are moved on their brackets, and the A/C belt is set via an adjustable idler pulley.

How do you tension the belts on a 1998 Gran Move?

Loosen the relevant lock and pivot bolts, adjust position (or the A/C idler screw) until the belt has correct deflection, then tighten everything back up. Re-check after a short drive, as new belts can bed in and relax slightly.

What symptoms suggest the belts need attention on this model?

Squeal on start-up, chirping after rain, a battery light flicker, dim headlights at idle, or heavy/jerky steering. Inspect for cracks, glazing, fraying, and black rubber dust around pulleys.