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Parts for your 1991 Nissan Primera-Tail lights
LED Autolamps Twin function rear position with supplementary rear indicator - 97CRIM
LED Autolamps Twin function rear position with supplementary rear indicator - 97RIMCSB
LED Autolamps Multi Volt Rear Indicator Lamp With 8 Square LEDs Blister Pack With Black Base - 135AM
LED Autolamps Twin function rear position with supplementary rear indicator - 97RIMB
Explore 4WD & Adventure
LED Autolamps Twin function rear position with supplementary rear indicator - 97CRIMB
LED Autolamps 8 Metre Boat Trailer Cable Tinned Copper Wiring And Side Marker/Licence Plate Light Connectors - BC800
LED Autolamps Twin function rear position with supplementary rear indicator - 97CRIMCSB
LED Autolamps 12/24V Reverse Lamp Horizontal/Vertical Mount Twin Blister - 11WM-2
LED Autolamps 174 Series Rear Indicator Lamp 12/24V, Surface Mount, 40cm Cable - 174AMB
LED Autolamps Twin Function Stalk Side Indicator With Red/Amber Side Marker LHS Multivolt - 805ARIML
LED Autolamps Rear End Outline LED Marker Red 12/24v Red Lens 16cm Cable Blister Pack - 42RM
LED Autolamps 12/24V Reversing Lamp With 25 White LEDs With Bracket and 30cm Wire - 100WM
LED Autolamps 12V Slimline/Low Profile Reverse Lamp with Black End Caps - 285BW12
LED Autolamps Twin Function Stalk Side Indicator With Red/Amber Side Marker RHS Multivolt - 805ARIMR
LED Autolamps 174 Series Reverse Lamp 12/24V, Surface Mount, 40cm Cable - 174WMB
LED Autolamps Twin function front position with supplementary front indicator - 97WIMCSB
1991 Nissan Primera Tail-lights
Tail-lights are absolutely fitted to the 1991 Nissan Primera (P10). The Nissan factory service manual (P10 FSM, Lighting/LT section) details the rear combination lamp assembly, including tail (rear position) and stop lamps. Road standards in its main markets also require them: ECE Regulation 48 for Europe/UK and ADR 13/00 in Australia mandate rear position lamps, so this Primera rolled out with tail-lights from day one.
On a ’91 Primera, the tail-lights do the critical job of making the car visible from behind at night and in poor weather, while the brighter stop filament signals braking. Indicators, reverse, and (where fitted) a rear fog lamp sit in the same cluster, but the humble tail lamp is the always-on safety hero whenever the headlights or parkers are on.
For routine servicing, it’s worth giving the tail-lights a quick once-over. Lenses should be clean, uncracked, and free of moisture. If there’s fogging or water inside, check the housing seal or the foam gasket where the cluster meets the body. A dab of dielectric grease on the bulb bases and a look at the earth (ground) point can cure dim or flickery lamps.
Bulb types vary by market, but the tail/stop lamp commonly uses a dual‑filament P21/5W (BAY15d). Indicators are typically PY21W (amber), reverse P21W, and some cars have a single rear fog P21W. Always match what’s in your car or check the owner’s manual decal in the boot.
- Open the boot and peel back the trim behind the lamp.
- Unclip the bulb holder to swap a globe, or remove the 8–10 mm nuts to pull the whole cluster.
- Inspect the gasket, replace if perished. Refit evenly so the seal compresses without warping.
- Test with the lights on and the brake pressed before closing up the trim.
If bulbs are blowing often, check system voltage (engine running should be ~13.8–14.4 V) and the tail/stop fuse for heat or corrosion. For NZ’s WOF or an Aussie RWC, tail-lights must glow a steady red, be evenly bright side to side, and not show white light through cracks. Replacement clusters are still around, and quality aftermarket units work fine if the tabs and connector match the P10 pattern.
What bulb fits the 1991 Primera tail/stop position?
Most P10s use a dual‑filament P21/5W (BAY15d) for the combined tail and brake. That said, trims and markets vary, so it’s smart to pull the holder and check the base type or read the boot label. Stick with quality bulbs for better lifespan.
Why are my Primera tail-lights dim or patchy?
Common causes are a tired earth connection, oxidised bulb contacts, or moisture in the cluster. Clean the socket, add a touch of dielectric grease, and reseal the gasket. If the lens is crazed or the reflector dull, a replacement cluster can make a big difference.
Do I need to replace the whole cluster if one side is cracked?
Not always. Small cracks can sometimes be sealed, but if white light escapes or water gets in, the vehicle may fail WOF/RWC. A good used or new aftermarket cluster is usually a straightforward swap and restores brightness and weatherproofing.